Climbing Ayoloco Glacier travel tips and stories. Vacations ideas, cruises, spa and resorts

The Ayoloco Glaciar is situated in the valley ”La Joya”, in Mexico. During the rainy period and after winter storms is possible to find snow and ice near Ayoloco camping zones. The route is usually taken in 2 days the first one up to Ayoloco camping zone (3-6 hrs) and the other one to the summit (3-5 hrs) and down (3-5 hrs). The single push from “La Joya” to the summit will take about 12-14 hrs round trip. The glacier may look easy and with no dangers at all, but it can be very dangerous especially in the rainy season and after big winter storms, avalanches can happen on it.

While you climb Ayoloco Glacier, you may need a place to stay for the night or to relax a few hours in the day. There are to options for rest if you have to climb this glacier: the first one is Ayoloco hut, its official name I think is “Otis Mcallister”. This hut can hold 6 people and some tents outside it, be sure to leave your food in a safe place, there are lots of mice in the area. The second one is “Las Cruces” camping spot.

From both camping spots you have to head to the center of the glacier, try to go a little to the right but not to close to the headwall, rockfall can happen at all times (if your idea is to ice climb the Ayoloco couloir, you will have to go close to the headwall), from the glacier head up until you reach the belly, and from there you have to follow the same directions as in the “Arista del Sol” route. It’s possible to find water on this route almost year around on the valley just below “La Joya” and it’s usual to find some little streams around “Las Cruces” and Ayoloco camping zones however this creeks are seasonal, depending on the amount of snow on the mountain. I strongly recommend treating all water that you get from these streams.