Roberta’s Pizza
This strange restaurant is owned by Chris Parachini and Brandon Hoy. The pizzeria is in a forlorn part of Brooklyn filled with gritty factories, warehouses, and lofts. The restaurant, housed in a former garage, has wood-paneled walls, elongated wood tables, and mismatched captain’s chairs.
Out back is a patio with additional seating and a rusting Mercedes-Benz sedan studded with flowerpots. The pizza, made in a wood-burning oven, is Neapolitan in inspiration and technique. The crusts are admirably airy and crispy, and the mozzarella homemade—but the tomato sauce could be richer and more assertive. There are nearly two dozen toppings, with unusual choices like taleggio cheese, capers, and tuna. The combo pizzas remove the guesswork: The guanciale and egg has delicious shavings of house-cured pork jowl surrounding an egg that has set perfectly, and the R.P.S. aptly balances peppery sorpresa with mellow roasted red peppers.
Location: 261 Moore St., Brooklyn, New York 11206
