Like other Ionian islands, Kafelonia was never taken by the Ottomans – it was too important to the Venetian maritime empire. Also like its neighbours, it was occupied by Italian and then by German forces during World War II. Kafelonia is the largest of the Ionian Islands, with a mountanious interior and magnificent beaches, it absorbs the crowds, and its towns and villages retain traditional independence. Photo by: Zena Leech-Calton

After the earthquake, Kafelonia rehoused rather than re-constructed. Ardostoli, the capital is beautifully situated, functional concrete town. The south of the island is rugged and barren and along the coast are the biggest package resorts and best beaches. Poros and Skala on the south-east coast are older resorts. Photo by: Giora’s

Sami is a large working post built and rebuilt on the site of the ancient capital offers a couple of decent beaches and tavernas which after the location filming have now been re-named. Ayia Efimia, north of Sami, is a friendly fishing village and low-key resort. On the northernmost point of the island stands Fiskardho, the only town to survive the earthquake. Its pretty harbour front curls round a bay bobbing with yachts. Crowded, but charming, it has pleasant walks to pebble beaches. The west coast is spectacular – the road runs along dizzying cliffs above dramatic beaches. The landscape of the rather remote Lixouri peninsula has been strangely moulded by the earthquakes. It has some good red-sand beaches. Photo by: Giora’s

When to go: May, June, September and October. Population: 31,800 (2001). How to get there: Direct charter and domestic flights. Ferry from the mainland – Patras to Sami, Kyllini to Poros. Inter – island ferries. You should know: The water in Kafelonia is very salt; it flows through an underground channel all the way from Katavothres near Argostoli. Photo by: Giora’s

Photo by: chun_heng