Upolu
Upolu is the most populated of Samoa’s islands, with a massive shield volcano that is 75 km long. The Samoans believe their islands were the cradle of Polynesian civilization, and Upolu is certainly the sort of place that would arrive from central casting where real people live real lives. The interior is rugged, tropical and lush with rushing rivers and stunning waterfalls. The palm beaches are often totally secluded and mostly deserted. There are no big tourists hotels and over-developed resorts and the focus of the islanders is based on family tradition and culture. The whole atmosphere is wonderfully relaxed.
Samoa‘s capital Apia is here – a town of old colonial buildings, a harbour that screams ‘South Seas schooner’, giant pulu trees and shabby charm. This is the only place on Upolu where there are shops, markets, hotels, restaurants, bank and international communications. Maketi Fou is the vibrant main market, a centre of town life that offers an amazing range of fresh produce and seems to be busy 24/6 (the Samoas are very religious and everything closes on Sunday). There is a flea market in the market building on Beach Road that sells clothing, food and handicrafts.
Outside Apia, tourists should look for the traditional thatched huts, here called fales, which are scattered along the coast – usually owned and operated by locals to generate a little collective income for the village. This is an inexpensive way to explore the island on maximum, and Samoa is actually one of the most affordable destinations in the Pacific.
When to go: No special season – Samoa is hot and humid all year round, but cooling trade winds blow from May to October. Population: 113,000 (2007). You should know: Land in Samoa is family-owned, so don’t be offended if you find a wonderfully secluded beach, only for a local to appear and request a small payment for the privilege of using it.
Photos by: tmizo
