Heligoland
The tiny island of Heligoland, 70 km off the German coast, towers up unexpectedly, its dramatic rust-coloured cliffs rising up to 61 m high out of the grey emptiness of the North Sea. It is a geological mystery – although its bedrock is limestone, like the White Cliffs of Dover, the island itself is composed of layers of sandstone, unlike any other rock form in the region. Photo by: Arend Kuester.
In the 19th century, this 1 sq km wedge of land was considered the healthiest place in Germany and attracted the attention of artists and writers, Kafka and Goethe among them. The invigorating sea air has an exceptionally low pollen count and the climate is mild, with more sunshine than the mainland and long balmy autumns. Even in winter the weather is rarely cold – fig and mulberry trees flourish here. A ten-minute boat ride to the north-west is a low-lying islet known as The Dune, part of the main island until 1720, when a violent storm caused a huge surge that permanently separated it. It is inhabited apart from a seal colony, and there are two idyllic, long sandy beaches for bathing and camping. Photo by: evrimsen
Amazingly, considering its remoteness, there are signs of prehistoric habitation there. From the 17th century it was populated by Frisians, who named it ”Helgyeland” (Holy Land). Although the islanders were semi- autonomous, surviving by fishing, smuggling and wrecking ships, sovereignty alternated between Denmark, Britain and Germany. In 1890, the British swapped it with Germany in return for Zanzibar, but after the World War II, the Royal Navy evicted all the inhabitants and tried to bomb it to bids. Despite the fact they failed, the force of the explosions left a huge dent in the landscape – a permanent reminder of Heligoland’s turbulent past. Photo by: JeroenJeroen
When to go: The best weather is from May to October, but the island is interesting at any time of the year. Population: 1,650 (2006). How to get there: The ferry from Cuxhaven takes two hours. Passengers are met by fishing boats which take them to land. You should know: Heligoland is a tax-free zone so all goods you buy there are at bargain prices, but check your allowances – you may be stopped at customs on re-entering mainland Europe. Photo by: jvonr
