Sightseeing in Prague means wandering through an invigorating diversity
Matička Praha - ‘little mother Prague’ - was largely undamaged by WWII, and the cityscape is stunning. Its compact medieval centre remains an evocative maze of cobbled lanes, ancient courtyards, dark passages and churches beyond number, all watched over by an 1100-year-old castle. Kidnapped by communism for 40 years, Prague has become one of Europe’s most popular tourist destinations. Its traditional pubs and eateries have been augmented by a wave of gourmet restaurants, cocktail bars and trendy cafes - though you can still feast on pork and dumplings washed down with a beer.
While attractions across much of the Czech Republic are closed or keep limited hours outside the summer season, Prague caters for visitors all year round. Periods when the tourist crush is especially oppressive include the Easter and Christmas/New Year holidays, as well as May and June. Many Czechs go on holiday in July and August, during which time the supply of bottom-end accommodation actually increases, as student hostels are opened to visitors. If you can put up with the cold and the periodic smog alerts during weather inversions, hotel space is plentiful in winter (outside Christmas/New Year), and Prague is gorgeous under a mantle of snow.
Prague lies in the transitional area between maritime and continental climates, characterised by hot, showery summers, cold, snowy winters and generally changeable conditions. A typical day in Prague from June to August sees the mercury range from about 12°C (54°F) to 22°C (72°F). Temperatures from December to February push below freezing. Wide variations are common, sometimes surpassing 35°C (95°F) in summer and -20°C (-4°F) in winter. The closest thing to a ‘dry season’ is from January to March, when total precipitation (mostly as snow at that time) is less than a third of that during the wettest months, June to August. And yet January averages as many ‘wet’ days (about two out of five) as the summer months do. The summer’s long, sunny, hot spells tend to be broken by sudden, heavy thunderstorms. May and September have the most pleasant weather.
Sightseeing in Prague means wandering through an invigorating diversity of neighbourhoods and pounding the cobblestones between old fortifications, historically resplendent squares and streets, majestic church-fronts, green open-air cuttings, and countless museum and gallery ticket booths.
Ethnic restaurants are burgeoning in Prague, so your diet can stretch beyond standard meaty Czech fare. There are also plenty of restaurants and pubs that move beyond the frumpy dumpling approach to embrace top-quality local food presented in creative and international ways.
Prague’s past plays a big part in its entertainment scene by providing centuries-old stone cellars for musicians to blaze away in, sculpted facades for beerhalls to make noise behind, or grand auditoriums for the staging of classical events. Competing with these are suavely modern bars and clubs.Stroll through the greenbelt atop Petřín Hill and fill both your lungs and your eyes. The views of the city are magnificent and you’re far enough above the fug of the city to breath fresh air. Cycling in Prague is a hairy proposition - those steep cobblestones can be tricky, and the traffic is as thick as the air - but once out of the more populated areas, the freedom and mobility are their own reward. Renting a rowboat or pedal-boat to tour the Vltava River on your own power can give you an interesting new perspective on the city.
Getting in and out of Prague is a snap, thanks to the cheap and well-run trains of Czech Railways (ČD) and the buses, which are even cheaper still, run more frequently and are quite comfortable. The budget prices and convenience of these modes of transports mean that air travellers to Prague are comparatively rare; if you do fly into the city, you’ll fetch up in Ruzyně, the international airport.
Prague’s Ruzyně airport, 17km (11mi) northwest of the city centre, is the Czech Republic’s only international airport. It’s served by dozens of international carriers, including Česke aerolinie (ČSA), the state airline. Departure tax is included in the price of the ticket. Smaller Karlovy Vary airport primarily serves domestic travellers, but has regular flights to Moscow.
Trains run daily between Prague and most major European cities; Paris, Amsterdam, Munich and Vienna are some major hubs. Within the Czech Republic, Czech Railways (ČD) provides cheap, efficient service. Various passes are available.
Buses tend to be faster, more frequent and marginally cheaper than the train. All domestic long-distance buses and most regional services depart the Florenc station, though many regional buses depart other terminals scattered throughout the city.
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