Cavetowns and Gorges of Cappadocia caves in Turkey
For millions of years, the mighty volcanoes of the Central Anatolian Plateau erupted and spewed their contents across the land that would become the cradle of civilization. Blessed with a moderate climate and fertile soil, one of the world’s earliest known communities was founded 10,000 years ago at Catalhoyuk along the river banks of the Casambasuyu near Konya. Mankind’s first nature painting was found here and it portrays the most recent eruption of Hasan Dagi almost 9000 years ago.
Another great volcano rises in the distance to the east of Hasan Dagi. Once called Mt. Argeus, the awesome presence of Erciyes Dagi inspired legends as the Abode of the Gods and the Persians built a Zoroastrian fire temple nearby. These two ancient volcanoes mark the western and eastern boundaries of a region known for its curious volcanic landscape that has been relentlessly carved by nature and by the people who have lived here. Fairy chimneys, cones and strange rock formations have been sculpted by wind and rain while subterranean towns were excavated by a populace seeking shelter from the conquerors and would-be conquerors who crisscrossed the wide open steppes of the Central Anatolian Plateau. Ancient Anatolian tribes, Assyrians, Hittites, Phrygians, Turkic tribes from Central Asia, Mongols, Persians, Syrians, Arabs, Kurds, Armenians, Slavs, Greeks, Romans and Western Europeans have all passed through leaving behind some of their traditions as well as their genes and rendering Cappadocians as exotic as their surreal surroundings.
Although referred to as cities, the underground communities of Cappadocia probably served as temporary shelters rather than as permanent hidden cities. The incessant darkness is hardly conducive to life and some of the passageways are little more than crawling spaces that would have been intolerable in long-term situations. No one is certain as to the number of underground communities that exist or even by whom they were built.
The two largest communities that have been unearthed are located at Kaymakli and Derinkuyu, 20 and 30 kms. south of Nevsehir on the Nevsehir-Nigde road. It is thought that the Hittites may have excavated the first few levels in the rock when they came under attack from the Phrygians around 1200 BC. However, some archaeologists believe that the oldest caves, those hewn with stone rather than metal tools, are substantially older. These chambers were later expanded into an extensive troglodytic complex by Christians escaping the Arab invasions of the 7th and 8th centuries.
Discreet entrances give way to elaborate subterranean systems with air shafts, waste shafts, wells, chimneys and connecting passageways. The upper levels were used for living quarters while the lower levels were used for storage, wine making, flour grinding and worship in simple chapels. Everywhere, walls have been blackened from the use of torches. There is a connecting tunnel between Kaymakli and Derinkuyu that allowed three people to walk through at the same time but it is not available to the public as parts of the tunnel have collapsed.
In fact, entire towns were carved into the soft tufa rock. Derinkuyu, an underground city only re- discovered in the 1950s, has been excavated to a depth of seven stories. This complex warren of underground streets and lanes once housed some 10,000 residents, with tunnels leading to other subterranean settlements nearby.
Although most Cappadocia cave dwellings are deserted, many still serve as shelter. There are even a handful of cave hotels. And in Zelve, a deserted monastery is one of the most fascinating remnants of the area’s troglodyte past. Exploring its many hidden recesses requires some athletic ability, but it is rare fun for any curious traveler who is up to the challenge.
It is easy to get around the main areas of Cappadocia by dolmus service which is inexpensive and offers regularly scheduled trips. However, service to the less traveled areas is sporadic and not always convenient. A variety of one day tours are offered by numerous local tour companies at a cost of about $75 - $100 per person per day. It is better to rent your own vehicle or to hire a car and driver. A rental car costs $60 - $100 per day and hiring a car and driver costs about $75 - $125 per day. Putting together a small group will make this option more cost effective.
Travel Planning Tips:
* Allocate more than two or three days to experience this truly unique area.
* Do include Konya in your Cappadocian itinerary. It was the once known as Iconium under the Romans and later became the capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum. The best examples of Seljuk architecture and calligraphy can be seen here.
* The culture of rural Turkey is conservative so modesty and polite manners are always appreciated.
* Be sure to keep yourself hydrated and to pace yourself in the summertime as the heat can be quite fierce.
* Try to vary your activities. Unless you are a Byzantine specialist, visiting the 50th rock cut church on the same day becomes a blur.
* It is worthwhile to explore the area around Guzelyurt. Particularly interesting is the nearby Kizil Kilise (Red Church), a 6th century cruciform church with a dome that sits on top of an unusual, octagonal structure. This graceful, little church was constructed from red trachyte, a type of volcanic rock.
* Do visit the rock fortress of Ortahisar, the spectacular Devrent Valley, the lush Soganli Valley and other well known sites. These areas have not been mentioned only because substantial information is already provided in most guidebooks.
* Purchase a good road map prior to leaving home. They are difficult to find in Turkey, especially outside the main cities.
Google Earth Placemark - Cavetowns and Gorges of Cappadocia caves in Turkey.
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